strawberry-rhubarb pie

one of our family traditions is to make a cake for birthday celebrations rather than buy one.  when my dad came to visit recently, I presented him with a freshly baked strawberry rhubarb pie in honor of his birthday.  while a pie may seem like an odd choice, I happen to know that strawberry rhubarb is one of his favorite pies and since we rarely get to spend time together at birthdays, a pie seemed like the perfect birthday dessert.

since the middle of fall is not strawberry season, or rhubarb season for that matter, I decided to use frozen fruit.  there are plenty of people out there that are probably thinking that I made a poor choice but the truth is, frozen fruit is at times better quality than what is available in the fresh produce section of most grocery stores.  the fruit is picked ripe and processed so quickly that it is also a lot fresher and since it is cleaned before freezing, it is ready to use one it is thawed.

the best part of a freshly baked pie is a homemade crust.  if I have heard it once, I’ve heard it many times, many people are convinced they just cannot make a fresh pie crust from scratch.  the truth is, it is one of the easiest recipes to master and that includes the rolling process.  there are just a few things that you must remember about pie crust:  heat is your enemy, over mixing is a sure way to get a tough crust, use plenty of flour to roll it out because you can easily brush it off and last, let it rest before baking by putting it in the fridge to give the gluten time to relax.

this pattern is probably my favorite one to top a pie with.  it looks woven but really isn’t.  alternating strips of dough are placed on the pie starting along one side.  the next strip is placed at the top of the pie perpendicular to the previous strip.  the third strip overlaps the second one at the top.  repeat the process by alternating a strip horizontally and vertically until you get to the bottom and you will form an eye catching chevron pattern.

carefully trim away the excess dough but leave enough to roll the edge and flute it.  you can either egg wash each strip as you go or all together at the end.  give it a light sprinkle of sugar and into the oven she goes…

now that I am not making pies by the dozen at work each day, I actually look forward to making them at home.  in some ways, I think I actually miss making fruit pies.  that could just be the change of seasons too-I am not a fan of winter and the fact that it is approaching quickly has me pining away for warm, balmy summer mornings in the garden…

for now, I am concentrating my efforts on getting settled and building the garden.  learning the patterns of sunlight both indoors and out is a large part of my focus.  so far, this house has many more options for light than our house in Nashville had and I am taking full advantage of it.

as winter approaches and my plans for the garden grow, I continually think of the seeds I will sow and the plants I will add to the beds.  growing rhubarb is challenging in the south because of the high heat and humidity but strawberries are easy and almost self sufficient.  there will be plenty of room for a large bed of plants and if I can keep the critters out, we will have enough berries to make a pie or two rather quickly.  for now, I can only dream about it and thankfully, finding strawberries and rhubarb out of the growing season is not difficult and may be just the thing to stave off the winter blues.

strawberry rhubarb pie with homemade crust
makes 1 (9″) lattice topped pie plus extra dough
pie crust
1/3 cup cold water
1 1/2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
2 2/3 cup unbleached all purpose flour
1 1/4 teaspoon salt
8 ounces unsalted butter, cold and cut into small cubes
(you can also use chilled vegetable shortening or a combination of the two, measure out and refrigerate the shortening overnight for best results)
1 egg whisked with 1 tablespoon of water
strawberry rhubarb filling, recipe follows
combine the water and vinegar and place them in the refrigerator while you prepare the remaining ingredients.
in a large mixing bowl with a flat bottom, stir together the flour and salt.  sprinkle the cubes of butter (and/or shortening) over the flour and gently toss together to coat the fat with flour, be sure that they are all separated and evenly distributed.  using your finger tips, two forks or an old fashioned pastry blender (my personal choice), to cut the fat into the flour.  you want the pieces of fat to be no smaller than peppercorns and if there are some the size of peas, that is good too.  sprinkle the cold water over the mixture in the bowl and gently toss the dough together to moisten it evenly.  if the dough is crumbly or there are pockets of dry ingredients, add a few sprinkles of water until it is moistened and pliable but not at all stick.  
this is an important part of the process, do not try to work with soft, fresh dough!  divide the dough into three equal pieces and form a thick disk.  wrap each separately and refrigerate for at least an hour.  take the dough out of the fridge and let it sit on the counter until it is somewhat pliable and gives when you squeeze the edge.  it should not be sticky or soft but rather cool and manageable-the edges shouldn’t crack and crumble when pressure is applied.  
flour your work space liberally-yes, liberally.  the excess can be brushed away much easier than sticky dough can be scraped off of the counter and rolling pin!  flour the top of the dough and begin rolling from the center out.  continually add more flour as you turn the dough between rolling pin strokes so that you get a circle rather than a square of dough.  when the dough is large enough to line a pan, brush the flour off the top surface, gently fold the dough over in half and brush the flour off the bottom.  carefully lift the dough and turn it over so that you can brush the flour off the other side.  if the dough is the proper temperature, it will be manageable at this point and moving it will be possible.  if it isn’t, roll it up on the pin and transfer it to a baking tray and pop it in the fridge for 5-10 minutes to chill it and make it easier to handle.  keep in mind, if you chill it, you must also let it soften or it will crack when you pick it up.  it is a bit of a dance, but learning to judge the temperature of the dough and the consistency is a skill worth having and it will ensure stress free pie baking!
transfer the crust to a pie pan that has been lightly greased and place it on a baking sheet lined with foil or parchment.  put the crust in the fridge to rest while you make the lattice strips and the filling.
to make the lattice strips, roll out a second disk of dough using the method above but instead of making a circle, make a rectangle that is about 9-10 inches wide and about 3/8 inch thick.  using a rotary cutter or a large knife, cut strips of dough that are 3/4″ thick.  you will need a dozen strips to make the pattern I used, you can re-roll the scraps once but they will be tougher than the first batch so resting them is a must!  you can use the third disk of dough if necessary or freeze it for another pie.  brush off the excess flour and place the strips on a baking tray and set them in the fridge to rest.
preheat the oven to 350.  fill the pie shell and carefully brush some egg wash around the edge.  lay the lattice strips according to the directions with the photos and if desired, you can brush each strip with egg wash as you go or wait until it is finished.  sprinkle with a little sugar and bake until the filling is bubbling in the center, about an hour.  let the pie cool to room temperature before cutting or the filling will run out.
strawberry rhubarb filling
12 ounces strawberries 
12 ounces chopped rhubarb
3/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1-2 teaspoons of freshly grated orange zest
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon apple pie spice or pumpkin pie spice, either will work
if you are using frozen fruit, allow it to thaw completely and be sure to add the juices to the mixture.  in a mixing bowl, stir the sugar with the cornstarch, zest and spices to combine them completely.  add the fruit and toss to coat.  scrape the filling into the prepared pie shell and top with a lattice, bake as directed above.
if you like this recipe, then perhaps you would enjoy the book it came from.  please check out my latest book, Desserts from the Famous Loveless Cafe!

strawberry tea-ramisu; a no-bake summer recipe

if you give a pastry chef a bottle of pennington’s strawberry rye, chances are she will whip up a dessert.  and if said pastry chef is feeling a little daring, she might just reinvent the classic tiramisu into something totally southern.  guess what, this happened, it really, really happened!

with many thanks to my good friend, the food sheriff, i found myself in possession of some penningtons, strawberry rye and the instructions to “make something!”  have i ever told you that i am good at following instructions?  okay, that is stretching it, a lot, but this time, i did exactly that.

 if you have made a true, classic tiramisu, you know it can be a little intimidating.  zabaglione is one of those recipes that require you to follow instructions carefully for the best results.  but that does not mean that you cannot improvise.  for this recipe, the technique is intact, it is the components that have changed.

the first change came when i decided to replace the espresso with a strong batch of black tea.  this dark tea was combined with the pennington’s strawberry rye and a little sugar to make the soaking liquid for the savoiardi.

to further adapt the recipe, the traditionally called for marsala was omitted from the zabaglione and the strawberry rye was used in a one to one switch.  to keep it light and simple, whipped cream was used rather than whipped mascarpone cheese.  the result of these changes is a lovely, creamy whiskey and tea infused dessert that is both simple and sophisticated.

the best type of cookie for this recipe is a true italian savoiardi, a crispy lady finger that soaks up the tea and rye syrup.  finding them in the grocery store can be a challenge but in nashville, i quickly found them at publix.  for best results, make the dessert the day before so that it has time to set and make cutting it into portions for serving.

 strawberry tea-ramisu
1 (8″x 8″) pan serving 6-8
1 (7ounce) package of savoiardi 
1 pint fresh strawberries
white chocolate shavings
tea syrup, recipe follows
zabaglione, recipe follows
press plastic wrap into an 8″x 8″ dish so that the sides and bottom are covered.  dip a few of the savoiardi into the tea syrup and line them up on the bottom of the dish so that the surface is covered.  carefully spread a third of the zabaglione cream over the top using a small, offset palette knife or a spatula.  place enough tea soaked savoiardi over the top of the cream, going in the opposite direction to completely cover it.  top with another third of the zabaglione cream and spread it out evenly.  repeat the process with the final portion of tea soaked savoiardi and zabaglione cream.  press plastic over the surface and allow it to sit in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours.  
to serve the dessert, carefully invert the dessert onto a plate-do not remove the plastic on the cream side, leave it intact for now.  holding the plastic wrap that is lining the bottom of the pan, gently pull the dish away.  remove the plastic wrap that is on the cookie side of the dessert and place a serving dish over the dessert and invert it.  remove the remaining plastic wrap and using the tip of the palette knife to create a swirled design over the top of the dessert.  cut into the desired portions and serve with slices of fresh strawberries and a generous sprinkle of white chocolate shavings.
tea syrup
2 cups water
6 black tea bags, single cup size
3 tablespoons pennington’s strawberry rye
1/3 cup sugar
bring the water to a boil over high heat.  add the tea bags and allow the tea to steep for at least 5 minutes and as long as 10 minutes.  remove the tea bags and gently squeeze the liquid out of them and into the pot.  
to make the syrup, measure out 1 1/2 cups of warm tea and combine it with the rye and sugar.  gently mix to dissolve the sugar.  set aside to cool completely.  can be made several days in advance and stored in the refrigerator.
zabaglione cream 
2 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons sugar
1/4 cup pennington’s strawberry rye
1 cup heavy cream, whipped
in a heat proof bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar and rye together.  to create a double boiler, choose a pot that is large enough to allow the bowl to rest over a few inches of water without touching.  over medium-low heat, whisk the mixture continuously until it reaches 135 degrees F.  
pour the mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer with the wire whisk and allow it to whip until it reaches a thick ribbon.  fold in the whipped cream and use immediately.

strawberry cake

strawberry season sneaks up on us and does not linger; it is sensitive to the cold and it is fleeting.   the berries can be quickly saturated, left waterlogged and tasteless by a day of rain.  gardeners with strawberries generally keep close watch on the berries as they ripen with daily trips to the bed to gather the ripest, reddest, plumpest fruits.  those that make it back to the kitchen may become any number of treats.  sorbet, ice cream, jam or cake-too many choices and honestly, most are consumed as they are picked; who can resist just picked berries?  not me, that is a fact.

like little red hearts on a vine, they ripen quickly and if you are not vigilant, you will find yourself battling squirrels, chipmunks, slugs and snails for the opportunity to taste the fruits of your labor.  we tried netting to keep the squirrels out this year.  the net works well-it traps the squirrels in the bed with the strawberries so that they get their fill while they search for the way back out…

pretty little flowers.  do you notice the similarity to the bloom of a wild rose?  they are both members of the rosaceae family.  but the connections do not stop there.  also part of the family is the genus Prunus and it includes nearly 430 species including plums, cherries, peaches, apricots and almonds.  amazing and true!  this is such a diverse family of plants that includes herbs, shrubs and trees which the majority are deciduous or, they lose their leaves each year but some are evergreens.  while many of the members are ornamental, quite a few produce edible fruits.  apples, pears, quince, apricots, plums, cherries, peaches, raspberries, blackberries, loquats, strawberries and almonds are just a few of the members of the genus Prunus.  and there you have it, the reason i tend to add a little rosewater to dishes that feature red berries!

our little bed is in it’s third year and the plants are well established.  we have picked several pints and have enjoyed snacking on them.  since i never head over to the demonstration garden (the one i help maintain as a member of the master gardeners of davidson county) without a cake, i decided to use some of the abundance to bake a cake to share with my fellow volunteers.  after all, this is the south and it doesn’t get much more southern than a strawberry cake in the month of may!

fresh strawberry cake
makes one 10 cup bundt cake
serving 12-16
6 ounces unsalted butter, softened
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
3 eggs
2 cups strawberries-cleaned, hulled and cut in half to loosely fill the cup
3 cups all purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup buttermilk
  1. preheat the oven to 350.  grease and flour the pan and set it aside.  
  2. place the butter, sugar, salt and vanilla in the bowl of a large food processor and pulse to combine.  
  3. add the eggs, one at a time with the machine running to form a smooth mixture.  
  4. stop the machine and dump the berries in.  pulse the machine to mix in the berries.  it will puree a small amount, chop up most and leave a few large chunks-refer to the photo above and do not puree until it is all one texture.  
  5. scrape the mixture out into a large mixing bowl.  
  6. place the flour, baking powder and cinnamon in a sifter or a mesh strainer and sift it over the batter in the bowl.  
  7. fold the mixture a few times, sprinkle the buttermilk over the top and fold together until no streaks remain.  scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread evenly in the pan.
  8. bake until a pick inserted into the cake comes out clean, about one hour.  cool the cake in the pan for 20 minutes and then invert it onto a rack to cool completely before cutting-if you can wait that long!
for those of you interested in more about the rosaceae family, here is the source i used for this post: